A view of the ice and water covering the log rack area.

A very important reason to have elevated log racks.

We already had the north log set and pinned for the second course, so today we started on the east wall. After orienting the log so any bow faced outward, we began by driving a pin in one corner.

A 1/2" hole is first drilled down through this log only. Then we pound a piece of 1/2" rebar about 18" long through the hole and then continue driving it half-way into the log below.

Since the opposite end of this log will be the "butt" end of the butt and pass corner, Ted cuts off the excess where we've measured the diameter to roughly match up with the south log that will be the "pass" log at this corner.

For safety, we decided to try using the chain sling on the block and tackle to hang onto the heavy log section we cut off. Then we could gently lower it to the ground.

Setting the south log. You can see that the end is resting on the flare of the log below it, causing quite a gap. But this is the "butt" end at this corner...

...so we cut the excess off. Next we needed to shave off a few nasty knots on the bottom side so the log would sit lower and close up that gap a bit more.

Ted also used some rope twisted around a pipe to cinch the log down tighter to the one below it so we could pin it in place better.

Here is one of our four homemade log dogs, which are used to hold the logs in place while we pin them. These are made of square stock steel and rebar pieces with chisel tips. The rebar pieces are welded to the cross bar at 45 degrees to the bar so that the chisel ends can be pounded down into the grain of the logs.

Here's Ted doing his favorite job: driving rebar.

Two courses are laid. We just need to finish pinning the 2nd course to the 1st course.