FRAMING & DRYWALL
11-4-11
 
 
The brackets we used are of the same type used for the 2nd floor joist beams. They are 5/16"-thick 4"x6" angle iron sections cut at 6" wide.   One of the two temporary walls with the drywall torn out.
     
 
Cutting the drywall out with a dremel tool made for a lot less mess than just tearing it out.   Stephen setting a good example by wearing his ear protection.
     
 
Marking the location of one of the brackets on the end of the header beam.   Cutting out the countersink for the bracket so the beam will meet its crossmember flush.
     
 
Only the framing remaining in the temporary walls, and a scaffold pick for Bob to work off of.   Chiseling out the countersink for a bracket at mid-span for the center joist beam in the photo at left.
     
 
Working overhead on preparing the ends of the joist beams.   Back on the floor, using the lancelot to round off the edge of the countersink for fit the elbow of the angle iron bracket.
     
 
A 2x4 support was used to aid in setting the two end brackets.   Pre-drilling for the bolts before attaching the bracket at mid-span on the header.
     
 
Attaching the bracket.   Using a forstner bit to drill shallow holes in the end of the center joist beam to accept the bracket bolt heads.
     
 
We had to manipulate the header beam a little, sliding it in perpendicular to the joist beams.   It's a great fit!
     
 
With the header in place, the brackets were bolted up through the bottom.   Looking up from the stairwell at the finished work. The next step will be to set the log post under the corner and remove the temporary wall framing.
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