7-18-09
 
 
Instead of planing a flat, level surface across the top of the wall to lay our sill plate on, we just planed off the high spots. We already anticipated this when we pinned the top course - the pins were not placed in any knots or high bumps if we could help it.
After planing, we set a reference string line down the top of the wall, laid down some sill seal, and set our 2x6 boards down for a dry fit. Here, Paul is using the tri-square against the string line to make sure the sill board isn't rocking over the crown of the log before nailing it in place.
     
 
Paul drives a pin deeper that happen to be positioned in a high spot that needed to be planed slightly lower.
The sill plate is down and nailed in place.
     
 
To attach the framed gable wall to the rafter set above, we installed a double 2x6 top plate by nailing it to the bottom flange of the rafter. We used bar clamps to hold the 2x6s in place while nailing.
Two bar clamps holding the second layer of the double top plate in place.
     
 
Aaron watches Paul secure the second 2x6 plate to the first with a nail gun.
Next, we laid out the stud locations on the bottom plate. Then, with a plumb bob, transferred those locations up to the top plate.
     
 
When the top plate came down to within four feet of the bottom plate, we simply used the 4ft. level instead of the plumb bob.
The east half is all studded in. Now on to the west half.
     
 
We noticed that the west half of the sill plate wasn't laying right on the log, so we removed it and planed a little more off a high spot.
The north gable end is now completely framed in.
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